Surfing in Hawaii is a centuries old practice of wave sliding known as “he’enalu”.The ocean and the act of surfing have always carried an air of mystery and meaning to the Hawaiian Culture.Ancient surfers made it a habit to listen to the ocean,as well as pay attention to her moods to calculate tides,surf and waves.
Surfing in ancient Hawaii worked on a system of respect and status. Renowned surfers became subjects of celebration.They received special privileges from the Chiefs(Alii).The Alii’s during the 18th and 19th centuries took to the water on long narrow redwood surfboards or Koa paddleboards this would display their high level of skill,speed,style and bravery of He’e Nalu(surfing)!
By the 20th century surfing was no longer for just royalty. As missionaries descended upon the lands,religion took a turn and Hawaiian traditions and Culture forced the Hawaiian way of life to stop surfing. Surfing started to be introduced again in 1915 with the efforts of the Waikiki swimming club including famous writer Jack London.It was London’s writings that help spread the word of surfing in Hawaii.Duke Kahanamoku the most famous surfer from Hawaii and Olympic swimming champion also helped spread the surfing sport to the media.
The growing sport was seen between 1955-1960 with mounting media attention with many Hawaiian surfing spots in magazines, television shows and movies.
Today many popular professional surfing competitions take place in Hawaii. The North Shore greets many surfers, the fame “Pipeline” and “Sunset Beach” where waves can reach heights of over 20 feet. The most famous however is Waimea Bay and Jaw’s on Maui which produces some of the largest waves in the world reaching heights up to 40 to 50 feet.
If you are a beginner, no problem, every Island has a lesson for you. Check out surfing lessons in the web site https://www.mauivalue.com/ocean-activities/surf-lessons .If you’re an advanced surfer check out this web site for wave reports www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl/pages/srd.php
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